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Egypt Gallery

March 25, 2015 Muddy Knees Leave a comment

Morocco

Desert camp at Erg Chégaga dunes

February 16, 2015 Muddy Knees 3 Comments

At Oulad Driss our group split into two and headed off into the desert in 4x4s. Our driver was named Mohammad and quickly realised that as the younger group, we loved going as fast as possible and over as bumpy ground as the 4×4 could handle. Showing off we whizzed through the desert, over taking our fellow travellers. We stopped a couple of times so the other group could catch up, though this gave us time to explore a little.

We noticed everywhere there was cracked mud-like ground. When you stood on it cracked like weak pottery. Apparently there had been some rain a few weeks back. The rain had changed the terrain of the desert

and, as Mohammad pointed out, caused fields of rocket to grow! He picked some and offered us it – it was unbelievable peppery! So much stronger than the stuff we’re used to. Not living far from a hipster part of Manchester, I couldn’t help but think how much of a fortune you have made from it back home.

When we arrived at camp we had some mint tea as way of a welcome in the roasting main tent, then wondered off to explore our home for the night. I wasn’t sure what to think of things until I discovered that behind our tent was a dune. Not overly high but gave a beautiful view of the surroundings and beyond.

Toilets at the camp weren’t so great. Thinking back, I would have preferred to have gone behind a sand dune. The ‘toilet block’ stunk and there was no light. Both these things I expected, though stooping in an unfamiliar position, with a torch in my mouth trying not to touch the walls did result in me ruining a pair of shoes. As far as toilets went, it was a complete adventure.

As the sun set we climbed the highest dune (bloody high about 150ft) and watched across the
desert. Ali pointed out the Algerian boarder and where we would be heading the next day. Looking behind us you could see fields and fields of rocket, and the 4×4 drivers coming back from picking bags of it.

We ate outside by moon light swapping tales of home and listening to Ali read a story from a book he had bought before heading to bed.

Honestly, I didn’t think I’d be able to sleep in the tent. I’m quite claustrophobic yet the tent was a lovely size. The night was so quiet, don’t think I’ve ever slept so well.

The next day we woke to find little prints in the sand. Several that appeared to be gerbil size and something bigger, fox like. Me and Tim followed them for a while, but were called back for breakfast. Whilst eating, a caravan of camels came through the camp on it’s way to offer rides to another tourist group.

Eating breakfast when who should show up... — Eating breakfast when who should show up…

Leaving the camp would have been harder if it wasn’t for the fact that I knew we we’re going to get back in the 4×4 with Muhammad.

This time we had many more stops to check out fossils and to hang out in a big dried lake. We came across an Oasis which few of us wanted to leave.

After lunch, we left the 4x4s (sad face) and jumped back into the mini van which took us to Tata.

Tata was an oasis settlement along the West African trade route. Close to the Algerian border, the small town has a very military feel, with 4 types of police and military stationed there.
Despite walking around the town, my favourite thing could be seen from the poolside/bar area of our hotel. Upon a hill was a military complex with a coat of arms/crest on the side that flashed like Christmas lights.

The trip into the desert was amazing. Writing about it will never do it justice so all I can do is stress that if you get the opportunity to go, you do so!

Morocco

Tamegroute

February 7, 2015 Muddy Knees Leave a comment

Most of my memories of day three are of the upcoming trip into the sahara. This is a true shame as, on reflection, our time in Tamegroute was fascinating.

Tamegroute, historic home to the Nasiriyya Sufi order, one of the most influential and at one time one of the largest, Sufi orders in the Islamic world. The zaoula (sanctuary) around which the village is built is one of the most important in the Moroccan Sahara.

The Zawiya Nassiriyya is said to cure anxiety and high blood pressure, thanks to the post-mortem calming influence of Sidi Mohammed ben Nassir – founder of the influential and learned Nassiri brotherhood who were famed for their ability in settling Drâa Valley disputes in the 17th century.

The zawiya is still a place of pilgrimage for the sick and many of those we encountered were looking to be cured. From quite a distance we could hear music and people singing. In the zawiya was a large crowd surrounding a group of men playing instruments and singing. Several of the women wore white, which we were told was traditional for a woman mourning her husband.

A man emerged in a trance-like state swinging a kettle around. Though the contents was clearly boiling, he put the spout to his mouth and took in some of the water. As he started spraying the steam, the crowed rushed towards him to be covered by it. Our tour guide told us this was a cleansing ritual and the people rushing to him will have some sort of aliment.

Towards the north-west corner of the square was a green-roofed mausoleum which, as non muslims, we could not enter. However, we could enter the library in the adjacent medersa for scholars. There were over 4000 books, displayed in simple glasses. Some of these, we were told, were copies of the Quran. One such copy came from the 13th century and was written on gazelle hide.

Not far from the singing and library was a pottery. The village is famed for it’s green pottery and we were given a tour around by a member of one of the two families that still make it.

Firstly we went into a cool, dark room were two boys (perhaps 13) where sat in holes in the ground. They appeared to be peddling a device in order to spin the pottery wheels as they smoothed out the bottom of what would become bowls.
Towards the back of the room where stacks and stacks of these bowls waiting to be fired.

After purchasing some little tea light holders, we set off and headed to Oulad Driss to ride camels before heading off on the 4x4s into the sahara.

Camels are uglier than I thought. The ones on TV or in pictures have clearly had the flies chased away. Four from our group decided to go for a ride. Before we reached Oulad Driss we stopped and bought head scarfs, so we donned these (I can proudly say I can still remember how to tie them) before going to pick our camel.

Each camel was coupled to another and lying/sitting on the floor. It’s really hard to tell how big they are in this position so I went for the one with the fewest flies. When prompted, it stood up with relative ease, however Tim’s camel took ALOT of convincing. When it finally did heave it’s ass off the ground it was bloody massive. And grumpy.

We headed out through the village. It was so quiet it felt like we were in a Western, only on camels. We rode into the desert, the trip taking about an hour in total which was more than enough camel fun for me. The surroundings where stunning, however the seat on my camel was lopsided so I had to sit wonky so to avoid falling off. The others didn’t fair too well either, with one seat having been worn down so much that the rider had literally blistered his ass.

At the furthest point of the trip, the guides stopped the camels to take touristy pictures of us all on the ugly things. Tim’s camel again caused problems because it refused to sit down! When it finally did and the pictures where taken, it refused to get back up…

When we returned to the rest of the group, I was desperate for a pee. Fortunately I wasn’t the only one, as the toilet block we were directed to was quite a walk away from everyone else. Though typical toilets, there was no running water so we had to rinse with water from our bottles and use hand wash.

I appreciate that it sounds like I’m bitching and, I probably am. However, that ride was one of the most memorable moments of my life. I will be wrinkly and telling my grandchildren about adventuring into the desert, with a pissed off camel and a sore bum.

Toilet rating: One flush behind.

Travel Hacks

Travel Hack #1

February 6, 2015 Muddy Knees Leave a comment

There’s one thing I can’t do without when away- my scarf.
Hair is notoriously crazy (think SideShow Bob and you’ve got me when I don’t straighten) so trust scarf helps keep hair look nice and out of the way.

The only problem is that I need hair pins to help hold it in place. Was truly grateful for them in the High Atlas Mountains and Essaouira, but what started as a full pack ended up as only the four in my hair.

At home, several weeks later, I came across a link that showed how TicTac packets can be used to store hair pins, stopping them from spilling out everywhere!

So there you go, my number one recommended travel hack!

Photo Galleries, Spain

Barcelona

Gallery February 6, 2015 Muddy Knees Leave a comment

Barcelona

Morocco

Marrakesh to Zagora

February 6, 2015 Muddy Knees 1 Comment

We left Marrakesh on the first morning of our tour. Driving south we headed towards the High Atlas and the mountain pass of Tizi n’Tichk (with an altitude of around 2260mts). The views were breath-taking and quickly I stopped taking pictures because;
a) there was so much to look at
b) pictures couldn’t do it justice. We stopped for a photo op (a difficult task in such strong wind) and a bathroom break.

This was when we experienced our first Toilet Lady.

The western-style bathroom block was clean enough and there was surprisingly toilet role. However, you are expected to give a 1DHR coin* or similar to the lady who looks after the bathroom.

If you have ever been to Morocco you will understand that getting small change is a nightmare.

Having only 200DHR notes I had to rely on the generosity of another woman on the tour who had arrived in the country a few days before so had change. In the future I decided to give a bit more when encountering Toilet Ladies, partly because it was easier, but mostly because I felt a bit guilty.

We drove on until we reached Ait-Benhaddou.

A traditional mud brick city on the edge of the High Atlas mountains, Ait-Benhaddou is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
It is uninhabited bar a few families still live there to look after it. Understandably, it is thought of as one of the Morocco’s most picturesque settings and it is no surprise that it has been the setting for many films, including Gladiator, The Mummy and, my fave, Game of Thrones.

We entered it through the second entrance, crossing the dry river to get there. Our tour guide, Ali, told us that this river did fill at times though it hadn’t rained for some time.

I’d recommend making sure your torch is easily accessible as some of the under passes a very dark, even during mid day. There are many little stores selling souvenirs, as well as some beautiful pyrography artwork.

If you have bad knees/hips/feet take it slowly. There is no way to get around the city other than walking and cycling, but the view from the top is well worth it.

After we made our way down we stopped for lunch, where I purchased my ‘genuine’ Ray Bons sun glasses. These glasses lasted me most of the tour but somehow broke in the middle whilst on my face on the last day. The shame Ray Bon, the shame.

Following lunch we climbed back into the mini bus. It became very apparent that we would spend the majority of our time on the mini bus. Not that I minded, sitting at the front I became good friends with our driver, Himi, despite either of us speaking a language the other could understand.

Continuing on through Ouarzazate, we then drive into the Draa Valley, following the Draa River as it passes the peaks and ridges of the Jebel Sahro.

It’s here I must make a confession. Though I love travelling I get so sick. There wasn’t a day of the tour I didn’t take travel sick pills. It was during our time in the High and Anti Atlas mountains, that I became grateful of this. The winding roads and quick, steep turns turned many stomachs, whilst I gently nodded in and out of sleep watching the world go by.

We reached Zagora in time for dinner but not much of a look around.

Our hotel was so much nicer than the one in Marakesh, typical Kasbah style but lovely surroundings with a pool and flowers. Tim was even able to push our twin beds together. Sitting on the balcony, we took in the day whilst overlooking what can only be described as a sea of palm trees.

It was this evening that I had my first mint tea and tagine, though more on that another time. We ate outside and bonded with our new found travelling companions. People who, on my next tour, will be hard to replace. The following morning we woke to head out to the desert. At that point I didn’t think it possible to have a more relaxing night sleep, but I was completely wrong.

Toilet Rating: A penny for your thoughts…on pee?

Click here for more pictures of our tour.

I visited Ait-Benhaddo as part of the Kasbah Trails tour through Explore! Click here for more information. Follow this blog for more upcoming posts on my experiences on this tour!

*This doesn’t seem to be a requirement. Given how much 1DHR works out to be and the poverty of some of these truly lovely people, shame on anyone who doesn’t.

Spain

Barcelona

February 5, 2015 Muddy Knees Leave a comment

Last year I went to Barcelona for a long weekend with my boyfriend, Tim. We have a tradition of each year going away either on or around each others birthdays. In a few, short years we both turn 30. As a combined celebration, we’re hoping to go on the Inca Trail. If you’ve been already please let me know about your experiences and any tips on booking you might have!

Anyway, Barcelona is an amazing city. My top 5 essential things to do

Walk all the way to Guell Park (no escalators, that’s cheating. There is a lovely sandwich/smoothie shop half way up to help you on your way).
Visit London Bar
Pretend you are in a Final Fantasy game whilst walking through La Sagrada Familia
Drink as many margaritas as possible
Have dinner at Sesamo, even if you’re not a veggie

Morocco

Essaouira

February 5, 2015 Muddy Knees 1 Comment

Essaouira is a beautiful example of an 18th century fortified city.
It may look familiar to some of you as it was the location for Astapor in Game of Thrones *fan girl squeal*

100km west of Marrakech on the Atlantic cost of Morocco, it’s location and fortified walls make it so memorable as Astapor. Walking around the city is like being part of the story.

Unlike the slaver city Astapor, Essaouira is known for a more relaxed atmosphere. In the 1960s it was a hippie haven and played host to rock stars such as Jimi Hendrix. It was nice and quiet when we went in November but come the warmer months, the beaches will be filled.

It is also a fishing port. Even if you’re not an early riser I recommend going to watch the boats bring in the daily catch- though wear closed shoes! I wore closed shoes but didn’t think to close them when getting back on the mini bus. Not sure my travelling companions were impressed.

The majority of fish we saw where sardines which where tossed up from the smaller boats by the bucket load to their companies learning perilously close to the edge.

If you’re a cat lover, you’ll be happy to know that, unlike the other places we visited, Essaouiran cats are healthier looking. Probably something to do with the fish, though I imagine tourists may place a hand in it.

We only stayed in Essaouira for an afternoon and an evening which was nowhere near long enough. We did manage to have a walk along the beach, though it was pretty windy and we were approached by a guy selling cakes.

Note: If approached by man on beach selling cakes, they are not good cakes. Or perhaps they are good cakes, it’s just a matter of perception.

The sunset was rivalled the one in the desert; setting over the sea, waves crash against the rocks, it was pretty romantic. Unfortunately the romance didn’t last long as I discovered the rock I had sat on was covered in seagull mess.

Essaouira was my favourite city of the tour. It has been influenced by tourism but, unlike Marrakesh, it has a really good vibe. If you’re a vegetarian on a similar tour, you will be happy to know that there is a wider range of food available than vegetable tagine and omelette.

Our hotel was beautiful and perfectly placed for getting all over the city with ease. Breakfast was delicious and you could see that in just the short time we had visited, everyone on the tour had relaxed.

As far as toilets go, expect typical western style and be truly grateful. After a week of holes and places that still haunt my sleep, Essaourian toilets are a god send.

If I go back to Morocco again, it will be to Essaouira. Beautiful city.

Toilet rating: The Golden Throne.

Click here for more pictures of Essaouira and our tour.

I visited Essaouira as part of the Kasbah Trails tour through Explore! Click here for more information. Follow this blog for more upcoming posts on my experiences on this tour!